It’s my last night on the island, so I’ll share where I stayed while I was here. Maria Leticia is a little group of rooms and apartments in the downtown area of Isla. It’s owned by a local gentleman and there’s no website and you can’t make reservations through any travel service. It’s a favorite of many travelers because of its reasonable price and close proximity to the beach, restaurants and shopping. You can either call ahead to make reservations, or take a chance by just going and seeing if he has anything available. He speaks very little English, by the way. My room was $35.00 per night and here’s what you get for it. It was very comfortable, the bed was just the right hardness, and the A/C was cold (although you have to turn it off when you leave the room). So, for 14 nights, my bill was $490.00. That wouldn’t have even covered two nights at the Villa Rolandi!
On Friday, I decided to take a little trip to Puerto Morelos. I’ve been there before and just wanted to see if it had changed at all. It’s a sleepy little fishing town about a half hour south of Cancun and there’s not a whole lot to do there. If you just totally want to veg and not do anything, it’s a great place to come. It’s not nearly as busy as Isla and doesn’t have the day-trippers that Isla gets from Cancun. Traveling around Mexico is extremely easy and inexpensive…as well as comfortable.
First of all, I had to take the ferry back to Cancun. Everyone hates to take the ferry to Cancun because that usually means it’s the end of your trip to paradise. But it’s not so bad when you know you’re coming back. Here it comes!
I usually ride on top, but it really does a number on your hair, so opted for the inside this time. This isn’t a ride on a little fishing boat by any means.
Here we are at Puerto Juarez in Cancun. I like this lighthouse.
I’ve been here quite a few times, but I’ve never looked up when I’ve walked through it because I’ve been busy buying ferry tickets or looking for my shuttle. I’m glad I did this time. Pretty cool, huh?
Now I have to catch a cab to the Cancun bus station. You kind of take your life in your hands with Mexican taxi drivers. I’ve learned just to sit back and watch the scenery. Sorry about the out-of-focus shot, but my camera wanted to focus on the driver’s cross hanging on the rear-view mirror instead of the street. Hmmm…maybe there was a reason for that.
This seat cover was on the passenger seat in front of me. I was really tempted to ask the taxi driver about it, but I held myself back. Who knows what can of worms that could have opened.
Here’s the Cancun bus station. It can be kind of confusing the first time, but you just ask for help and eventually figure things out.
The cost for my trip to Puerto Morelos was twenty-two pesos. That’s like $1.70 in US dollars. Could the United States learn a little from Mexico on mass transportation?? I think so.
Here’s what you get for 22 pesos. These buses are streamlined and all of them look very new. The air conditioning is usually super cold but that’s better than the alternative.
I think “X-Men” was the featured movie for the ride.
Here’s some of the scenery on the way to Puerto Morelos.
They have these darn speed bumps all over Mexico. The buses slow down to almost a stop going over them.
The vegetation is very thick and dense all over the Yucatan. I can’t imagine cutting through all this stuff.
Here’s the bus stop in Puerto Morelos…a gas station. That’s my bus with the big ADO on it.
Another taxi ride into Puerto Morelos. No pictures of that…it’s only a two-minute ride.
I decided to stay over one night here so that I wouldn’t feel rushed. I’ve stayed at the Posada el Moro before and really like it. It’s colorful, comfortable, and close to the downtown area as well as the beach.
I love the lush vegetation and the pool area.
Well, that’s enough for one post tonight. I’ll have to write more about Puerto Morelos when I get home. More to come!
First off, when I went to Barlito’s the other day for breakfast after I got the golf cart, I neglected to show some photos I took on the way there. Here’s the map we’ll be following today. The short black line on the top left is where the first photos are from which I forgot to post before. Then we’ll leave from the tip, go along the east side of the island until we get to the colonias where the black ‘X’ is. This is where most of the locals live. Many ex-pats are purchasing homes here now, though.
This is new…well, at least to me.
Lots of little boats along the way…
School kids getting out…
And this is the new Chedraui on the island…it’s like a Walmart.
They even sell scooters!
And the only escalator on the island…
Okay…on to the colonias. When you leave Punta Sur, you go along the east side of the island which has more nice homes. Here are a few.
There are quite a few of these signs on this side of the island, as well.
Here’s the other popular realtor in town.
Here’s the shell house. I stopped and tried to take more pictures, but it’s a gated house and the foliage is pretty thick, so you really can’t get any better views. They even used shells for the surrounding walls.
This one’s cute…I could live here.
They were just starting to build this when I was here last time.
Now we’re starting to get into town.
Still driving alongside the shore…
Now we’re in the colonias. I’m not going to say anything about each picture. I just took a bunch of shots to give you a general idea of what it looks like.
I’m thinking you could get a better deal on this one than the homes on the shoreline!
There is no lack of color on the island…
They refer to this one as the “Crayola House.”
There are two lakes in the middle of the island.
Some of the homes are very well kept…
This is a newer structure…
Looks like the carnival was in town!
There is a ladies’ beading co-op on the island, so I brought some beads along to donate to these hard-working women. Here they are.
And they have lots of beautiful items for sale.
Second to last stop is a new church that overlooks the sea. Here it is from the street.
I love churches in Mexico. From the huge cathedral in Merida to this little church on Isla Mujeres, they are places of beauty and peace. A feeling of serenity just hits you when you walk in and see the sea behind the altar. What a wonderful place for a church.
And the last stop was Chuuk Kay for fish tacos. Nice little harbor view…
So that concludes my golf cart tour. I tell you what, I was pretty sick of these by the end of the day…they are all over the island. After a couple times of not slowing down because I was looking around and just about getting bounced from the cart, you learn to pay attention.
Today’s post is just about Punta Sur…the very eastern tip of Isla. These will mostly be just pictures, because there’s isn’t a lot to say about it…other than that it is beautiful.
You have to drive by these four homes to get to the tip…I like these homes. They’re very well manicured and they’re not overly ostentatious. I could see myself living in one of these (in my dreams). I can just imagine the killer views they have from the other side.
And here’s the sign in front of my parked golf cart. Hmmm…
Here’s the walkway to get to the tip. I believe it was about 350 degrees that day, and as you can see, I was the only fool walking around in the heat. You’d think there would be a nice breeze here, but it’s always been incredibly hot every time I’ve walked out here.
The statues you see were placed there not too many years ago (I don’t know exactly when)…they were actually in pretty good condition when I first saw them in 2007. They’re from artists around the world but the opinions that people have of them are pretty mixed…mostly in the negative. While I’m an appreciator of art, these works are a tad strange…especially being placed in such a beautiful setting, which I think would be better left to its own.
That being said, here’s the first one.
Sidebar: Here’s a colorful little guy climbing up a sign post.
Back to the statues. Since these things are constantly open to the harsh elements of the wind, salt and water, they have taken a beating and are definitely showing the wear and tear.
In fact, some of been destroyed completely. This will probably happen to all of them in time.
The water looks beautiful from up here, but it was really difficult for me to enjoy it at the time. The sweat kept getting into my eyes and blurring up my contacts and I swear I thought I was going to go blind from the sun.
The guillotine statue…
Another one that has bitten the dust…
This one looks like it’s not far behind…
Okay, enough of the silly statues. Another sidebar: I saw this guy/gal at the edge of the cliff and took a zoom shot which actually turned out pretty well. You think it’s an eagle?
The pathway goes out to the tip, and they it winds down so that you can get pretty close to the water.
Here’s some information for you…
They have a pretty garden area when you first enter the area, as well as a restaurant that looks out over Punta Sur.
And here’s looking back at the tip. These rocky areas are usually crowded with iguanas, but I hardly saw any while I was there. I think even they were smart enough to get out of the heat…as opposed to me, the silly tourist.
I can’t tell you what fun people have with this statue. You can probably guess, though.
So that was our walk around Punta Sur. By this time, I thought I was going to die of heat stroke so I had to jump on my golf cart to feel some breeze. Next post will be on the colonias.
Okay, so I rented the golf cart yesterday and drove that thing around all damn day. I was one tired, grimy, gritty, sweaty gal when I parked it in front of my hotel…especially considering that I would stop and walk around and take pictures, etc., etc., in addition to just driving it around. Have I already mentioned that it’s hot down here?? Well, it still is. Hardly a cloud in the sky and intense heat every single day I’ve been here. I keep hoping for just one day of cloudy skies or rain, but I don’t think it’s going to happen. Anyway, I took a boatload of pictures, so I’ll divide them up into sections of the other parts of the island.
Here’s my spiffy little ride. I’ll have to say the steering was a little (actually, a lot) loose and I felt like it kind of had a mind of its own as to where it wanted to go. I quickly learned that I needed to sit on a towel because the back of my legs are sunburned and getting up off the vinyl seat after my thighs glued themselves to it in 100 degree temps…well, you probably get the picture…and it’s not a pretty one.
Here’s another map of Isla and the black line is where this blog post will cover.
I started out with breakfast at Barlito’s. They used to be located downtown, but they recently moved to a mid-island location with the hotel Marina Paraiso. It’s a long walk from downtown, so it’s best if you have some kind of transportation…specially when it’s 200 degrees outside. It doesn’t look like much from the street, but when you get to the back, it’s literally a little oasis. I was really surprised.
The restaurant looks over an infinity pool…
And here’s the back of the hotel. It’s a very peaceful, quiet sanctuary and I would definitely consider staying here in the future. The prices are really reasonable, as well.
Here’s my bagel. It was really good, but I could only eat half of it. It’s definitely enough for two people.
I had an audience the whole time I was eating. He would literally not stop looking at me. I’m thinking he was asleep…I hope.
Back into the golf cart. I drove down a side street not far down from the restaurant and found these new condo units. They are right next to local houses with no sea views. I’m really curious as to what they look like inside and how much they go for.
Now we’re going along the left-hand side of the black line of the map starting at the top. This area is where some of the big, expensive resorts are. Here’s one of my favorites because I think it really is a beautiful little spa-like hotel. It’s called the Villa Rolandi.
There’s a pier across the street where boaters and dock and come ashore…
I want this boat.
It definitely has that Caribbean flair to it and I love the stained glass.
The grounds are meticulously kept up…
The beach area is small, but it’s nice…
And all the flowers are so pretty…
By the way, I asked the desk clerk how much a single room was going for and she said $345.00 per night. Whoa. That’s $310.00 more a night than I’m spending at my place…big difference.
On with the tour. Towards the end of the road, there’s a place where you can swim with the dolphins. I’m not sure it’s still in operation…I didn’t see anyone there, but maybe I drove by there too early.
And here’s the end of this direction of the road…which leads to another resort. They keep most of these high-end resorts very private. I guess you can’t get in unless you have a reservation.
So I turn around and go back up the road towards the opposite tip of the island. I just took random pics along the way. This road has a collection of homes and lodging and sometimes it’s hard to tell one from another.
Just a random pic…I liked the blue door against the flowers.
Unless something needs an explanation, I’m just going to post pictures as I was driving by.
This guy built this island that is floating on plastic bottles and he actually lives there. Crazy, huh?
This is Zama Beach Club…a place where you can just hang out and swim and eat.
Again…very spa-like and peaceful.
I thought you had to pay a fee to hang out here, but the manager told me you just need to purchase dinner while you’re there. I didn’t see a menu, so I don’t know how expensive that is, but it sure is pretty. I love these floors!
Just up the road are some condos that have a very pretty setting. I love the driveway with the grass coming up between the blocks.
Very peaceful and quiet…
More random shots driving up the road…
This is a huge complex in the process of being built. I drove by around 10:30 and no one was working. I hope this isn’t another instance of bad planning where it’s just going to stand there for years with no end in sight. It looked kind of desolate.
I saw a lot of these signs on the way. If anyone wants to buy a space on paradise, there’s a lot of homes and lots available.
Then we get to Garrafon Park. Everyone who drives by here has to stop and take a picture because the hues of the water are so breathtaking.
There were lots of zip-liners today…
And lots of snorkelers and kayakers…
Tomorrow I’ll cover Punta Sur (the very eastern tip of the island)…and after that, the nitty gritty of the real Isla. Stay tuned!
I’m sorry…what day is it again?? Okay, so I’ve been lax in the postings…call me guilty. I have a confession to make. I’ve gotten totally into John Grisham books (I know, I’m WAY behind on that), and cannot put them down. Right now, I’m on “The Firm.” You’ll notice my Kindle in a lot of pictures. (Thanks, Sarah.) But I’m on vacation, right? And it’s a two-week vacation at that. I can do what I want, right?
So, on that note, I’ll post some of the few pics I’ve taken in the last couple of days. I’ll start with a few that I took with the GoPro camera my son loaned me. It’s a strange little camera and really tiny.
It takes strange pictures, but they’re kind of cool. Here’s my beach day with a Margarita.
These would be my legs…not some random stranger’s.
I plan on using this more when I go snorkeling or swim with the whale sharks or whatever.
I went for breakfast at Muelle 7 yesterday and it was a good choice. This was my view.
I got the Huevos Divorciados and it was delicious. That means “divorced eggs” for those of you who aren’t familiar…eggs served with green sauce and red sauce. Even though it may look a tad strange, it was really good. There was toast in the turquoise basket which helped to sop up the eggs and sauces. Muy bueno.
More random water shots…
I think that’s a fish in there…
I noticed there are a lot more musicians on the island on this trip. There didn’t used to be any, but now they come around on the beach and in restaurants, and ask if they can play for you…for money, of course. Um…I don’t think so. Not when I’m busy reading John Grisham.
Dinner last night was at Bally Hoo when we were watching the World Cup between Mexico and the Croatians. This was the Thai Shrimp. Excellent. I have a habit of not being able to finish meals on Isla because of the heat, but I ate all of this.
Once again…that wonderful view.
For breakfast this morning, I went back to the loncherias. These are authentic Mexican eateries and have been run by local families for years. You can’t get a better deal than this.
I chose Tacos Tumbras this time.
I got the Huevos Mexicanos. I always pay in pesos but it came to about $3.00 in USD…you can’t beat that! I love the tablecloths in the loncherias.
Two more food shots. Lunch today at Brisas Grill. Pizza…too much to eat at one sitting. Luckily, I have a fridge in my room, so I took half home for leftovers.
And dinner at Rolandi’s. Meh. I’ve made better at home. Not worth the price.
So, tomorrow is golf cart day…yay!! I’ve been assigned to take lots of pictures, so it will be a full day. Stay tuned!
You’re asking what is “tired” in Spanish? Is that some kind of weird day of the week? No, it’s Deb spent the day at the beach and is way too TIRED to do a post tonight. I will post, however, that the Mexicans beat the Croatians tonight in the World Cup, so I (along with the rest of the island) was very happy to see that. You go, Mexico.
Okay, so I got mixed up on my days. Yesterday should have been dia cinco, so I’ve change that day, and today is day six. Sheesh, when you’re not working, you lose all sense of time. Which is a damn good thing in my humble opinion.
The last two days have been pretty lazy, but that’s what happens when you’re on Mexico time. I’ve read a whole book just in the last day and a half. It normally takes me weeks to get through a book because I mainly just read on my lunch hour if I’m not going out with friends. Now I feel like I have all the time in the world which takes some getting used to. When you’re used to doing something all the time, it’s hard to just sit back and relax. But I’m trying my best. By the time I get the hang of it, it will be time to go back to work. *sigh*
This morning’s breakfast was at the Bistro Francais.
Here’s my view to the left. The guy on the bike is selling newspapers.
And to the right…
And here’s breakfast. It was okay…the prices are pretty reasonable.
Then a walk to work off breakfast. (It doesn’t take much in this heat.) Hemingway’s is still going strong…they were hopping when I walked by one evening.
I think the Hotel El Caracol has changed colors every time I’ve been there. It’s always vibrant…no pastels or earth tones on this baby.
I was sorry to see that Manana is closed. I liked going there for breakfast every once in awhile. I like how they painted the “For Sale” sign on the side of the building to match the decor. Very tasteful. I hope someone can make a go of it there.
I took a picture of this structure on my first trip to Isla back in 2006. (It was a much better picture than this.) I can’t believe it’s still there…and I also wonder what those empty windows looked in on and what the original structure looked like. Just curious.
Just some more colorful places around town…
I normally don’t like bars on windows, but if you have to have them, this is what they should look like.
This must be like a “to go” version of the Rooster Restaurant? It’s on Carlos Lazo…
Along with this place. Is it a new bar?
Since I was there at the hostel, I walked out to the east side of the island to see if I could find any sea glass. This side is much rockier and is not a good swimming beach.
This fellow was keeping an eye on me.
I have found pieces of sea glass in this area before, but not one single piece could be found today. It’s kind of amazing how different one side of an island can be from the other. This side has much courser sand and when you step into where the water meets the shore, you sink down about six inches. That doesn’t happen where the sand is soft and white.
Back up to the malecon…which is pretty much deserted, which is so sad because it’s such a beautiful view.
I happened to find a photo that I had taken after all the “improvements” were made several years ago with all the new benches. What a shame that they are all gone and there’s nowhere to sit other than on the ledge. And why did they face them towards the town instead of towards the sea? That never made any sense to me.
Much further down the malecon, you can see the backsides of the houses that I posted on the fourth day…a couple of which were for sale. The thing about this area is that there are nice, new houses that are right next to old houses that have probably been owned by families for years there which may never be sold. Besides that, they are on such a small plot of land, that there is no room to put in a pool. Since you can’t swim on this side of the island, if I were going to buy a home there, I would definitely want at least a dipping pool considering the heat of the summers. You never know why they’re for sale.
Like this one. Yes, it has a nice view of the sea, but there’s a very small patio and no green space. Plus you have the disadvantage of having tourists, residents and golf carts traveling back and forth behind your house.
Interesting paint job on this one…
Here’s something you might be able to get pretty cheap.
And this is what it looks out onto. I’d be curious to know how much they’re renting it for.
On a side note, when I fell and broke my wrist a few months ago, I became very paranoid about where I walked. I would nervously watch the ground and look for any signs of twigs, sand, rocks, etc., so that I wouldn’t accidentally slip on anything. After a couple of months, I kind of relaxed about it, but now that I’m down here, I’m back to being paranoid. Isla has probably the worst sidewalks I’ve ever walked on and I spend most of my time looking down when I’m walking around town. I’ll admit that I’ve tripped or stubbed a toe a time or two here on previous trips while obliviously taking pictures, but not this time! No, sirree…no more broken wrists for this gal. Here’s my proof…
Not a long post this time. I didn’t feel like doing much today, so it was a reading day. I’ll start with last night’s dinner at Bally Hoo. I love sitting there in the evening because of the breeze and it’s a nice place to work on my blog. The fish tacos were good…they make their slaw like me…oil and vinegar with no mayo.
It’s also an entertaining place to sit because of all the activity. A boat came back with some lucky fishermen.
And this young woman threw a net into the water and pulled it back up with a bunch of little fish, much to the enjoyment of the little boy with her. They put them into a bucket of water…guess they’re using them for bait.
A night shot of the boats. Doesn’t that look like a cat in the far boat?
Here are just some random shots. I thought about renting this on my golf cart day, but think I’ll pass.
Massages on the beach…not for me, though.
Here’s the front of JAX. They really are doing a redecorating job on it…not nearly as colorful as it used to be. And they painted the sculpture gold since I was last there.
Here’s the Privilege Aluxes…a newer hotel on the island. I stayed their once because I got a great deal. The rooms really are nice and comfortable, but you pay for it. The restaurant had a lot to be desired when I stayed there. Hopefully, they’ve improved, but I don’t think I’d bother to go there again. I never see anyone eating there.
A peek into the cemetery…
Today’s breakfast at Compadre’s. (Didn’t this use to be Bucanero’s? It’s right across from Rolandi’s.)
Well, I found out where all the seaweed is. It’s all at the far end of Playa Norte. Ugh…it was pretty smelly, too.
Here I’m standing at the corner of what used to be Zazil Ha. (Not sure what it is now.) When I first came to Isla back in 2006, the water was all the way up to this corner. It’s strange how the beach can change so drastically.
Here I am in the water looking back at where I was standing in the last picture.
As you walk up Playa Norte, the seaweed gradually disappears and you’re left with the beautiful views of the sea.
Are these barnacles??
I washed out some clothes this evening and didn’t feel like going out for dinner so I just got a hamburger at Bobo’s Grill.
It was pretty darn good! Good prices, too!
This is going to be a long post. Since I was so lax in my last post, I felt I needed to make up for it. For those of you “Islaholics” who are ex-pats or frequent visitors of the island, you’ll probably be bored. You’ve seen these scenes many times, but I want to show my friends at home what it’s like to be on Isla.
First of all, here’s a map of the island. The downtown (el centro) area is in the triangle area at the top of the map. That’s where most of the tourists go and it’s where most of the restaurants and hotels are located. There are resorts and hotels located on the rest of the island…as well as privately owned homes that are available for rent throughout the island. You can get pretty much whatever you want ranging from a basic apartment like I have for only $35 per night…up to a luxury resort room for hundreds of dollars per night.
Since I’ve been sharing my breakfast each day, I’ll include today, too. I went to Bally Hoo, again, because of the pleasant breeze. Just a light one today…didn’t feel like eggs.
So then I felt the need to trek around town to take pictures to show people who have never been here. It’s definitely a Mexican town, and there’s no resort feel. They do have resorts here, and I will show you those places when I rent a golf cart to zip around the island, but they are not evident in the downtown area…with maybe the exception of Ixchel and Privilege Aluxes. But you definitely feel a Mexican influence with many Mexican residents living among all the hotels. Basically, what it comes down to is that if you go to resorts along the Yucatan coast, the only Mexicans you’ll see are the ones who serve your meals and clean your rooms. The Mexicans you see on isla are the ones who live here and work here. That’s what makes it different from other tourist areas. And that’s why I like it. It makes you remember that this is Mexico…it is not just another touristy place with a bunch of chain restaurants and hotels that you can find anywhere in the United States.
Okay..enough with my rant. Here is Isla Mujeres. This is the main governmental office on the island. I swear this place has been painted or renovated almost every single time I’ve been here since 2006.
And here is the main church in town. Looks like they’re putting in a new stairway. I don’t know what they’re going to do with the fountain that they’ve obviously dismantled. It was a good idea, but they obviously didn’t take the wind into consideration.
Here’s the basketball court on the zocalo…
Here’s the parking lot next to the zocalo. Obviously, scooters are the mode of transportation on the island.
Okay, so here’s where I’m just going to start posting pictures of stuff around the island with some brief comments.
Here’s one available for rent…I’d like to see the inside.
I think I need to rent this when I rent a golf cart…
A new place…
Here are some places for sale if anyone is interested…
I’m kind of confused on this one. Is the space between these two homes for sale (which isn’t very much)?
Or is the home included with the space??
Creative way to camouflage the meters in the cat’s eyes.
Every time I’ve been on Isla, the woodwork on this door has been perfect. The salt and humidity is so damaging to wood, but they keep it in excellent condition.
New ferry digs?
New gift shop…
Lots of purses…
And lots of jewelry…
Cutting coconuts for exotic drinks…
Real people on the island…
Okay, so I know I’m a bit behind on the posting. Please cut me some slack…after all, I’m in paradise. Besides that, I’m starting to adapt to island life where everything runs much more slowly. It’s something I could easily get used to.
So, yesterday, I had breakfast at La Cazuela M&J. They’re noted for their cazuelas which are various versions of an egg dish cooked and served in a small cast iron skillet. They are very good, but they’re BIG and much more than I have an appetite for in the morning.
I opted for the Huevos Maya, which was a perfect size. I posted this on Facebook with the comment that the thing that looks like a cornbread muffin is actually a little pile of potatoes. Wanda replied, “Mashbrowns! Love them!” Haha! That’s exactly what they are…potatoes mashed into a little square. Thanks, Wanda.
M&J’s is a really cute little place and is only open for breakfast and lunch…no dinner.
Remember when they used to be located outside the Roca Mar Hotel? It was hot sitting out in the morning sun there eating hot cazuelas! Even though you don’t get a view of the sea while eating at their new location, it’s a much nicer place now.
Speaking of their old location, this is what is there now.
And this is where I was for three hours today getting my hair highlighted. I kid you not…three hours. She did an absolutely wonderful job and I just love the color. Here was my view from the chair.
And here are the results. I guess I’ll have to come back in six months for a touch up.
I needed some libation after this, so I stopped by Picus to get my shrimp cocktail and a cold one.
The Mexican ladies at the table next to me were feeding the seagulls with their leftovers so I joined in. (Are these seagulls? I’m not really sure.) These guys can really get scrappy with one another when food is involved.
Then another quick walk down the beach. There is virtually no seaweed on the island. I don’t know whether they remove it in the early hours of the morning, or whether they just don’t have a problem with it. The beach at Puerto Morelos just down the coast always has a lot of seaweed.
Dinner was at a place I’d never tried before.
Spinach and cheese ravioli. It was okay. The prices were really high, but I’m finding that all the prices have gone way up since in the last time I was here. No more dollar beers, that’s for sure.
Okay, so I know this was somewhat of a lame post, so I’ll have to get on the ball. I’m leaving right now to get some pics of the town so I don’t get fired from my blogging job. See you later!
I woke up at 6:40 a.m. this morning because it was like there was a million lights in my room. The window treatments are definitely not designed for late sleepers, so I knew I wasn’t going to win that fight. That’s okay. I like waking up on the island and hearing all the sounds. Waking up on Isla is not like waking up on a resort. Isla Mujeres is mostly populated by residents who live and work there every day. This is not a resort to them…it is where they live. So at 7:00 this morning, they are bustling through the streets on their scooters on their way to work…
And their kids go to school right around the corner.
This is the gentleman who lives across the street from my hotel.
I remember him from my first visit to Isla back in 2006. Here he is then…
I’m glad he’s still there.
This is also across the street. While it might not be in the tidiest of conditions, I am in awe of the concrete swan work. I think it’s somewhat amazing that Mexican homes are adorned with these special decorations. I, for one, would love to have some swan work on my front porch.
I went for a walk along the beach first thing this morning…beautiful. I will have to say it seems strange not to have Sergio’s at the corner of the beach now, though.
Here’s another little house that’s been updated…
Here is another one of my favorites…although I don’t like the current color.
I liked this house so much before when it was aqua…
And had this little girl looking out the window…
I liked it so much, I even made a stained glass piece from it which I still have hanging in my window…
Oh, well…everything changes.
After my walk, I went to Alexia & Geovanny’s to have breakfast…
And, of course, I had to have the Huevos Motulenos for my first breakfast…
Then I walked around town a bit to see what had changed. Obviously, they’ve done away with the fountain in the Zocalo since I’ve been there. Whatever happened with that??
They’re building some new things along the malecon…
And re-doing some things…
Considering they face this view, you would think they’d have a good future.
But I went walking along the malecon, and there are definitely issues. They put these benches up about four years ago, and look where they are today. This is the only one left…the other ones have obviously been removed due to the wear and tear from the weather.
Continuing the walk along the malecon…the old hotel (I can’t remember the name) has been torn down. There’s no indication that anything is replacing it.
And just a blank space where no vegetation is growing and it just looks pretty bland. I guess I don’t understand why they can’t do something along the malecon which would make it aesthetically attractive while considering the elements of the weather. They keep changing it, but it doesn’t get any better. Who am I to know?
Here is a sign about protecting the tortoises…along the background of condos that have been deserted for years.
I went to the beach today and it was pretty much deserted.
On a positive note, I went to Bally Hoo for dinner. It is truly a great place to relax because the breezes are great and you just don’t feel the heat. Here were my views…
Tomorrow is my pamper day. I’m getting my hair highlighted. Sweet.
Let me just start out by saying, “It’s freaking HOT down here!!” I looked on weather.com before I left and it showed showers for the next ten days with temps in the mid to lower 80′s. NOT! I don’t know what the actual temperature was, but I was sweating bullets and my hair looks like something from the Bride of Frankenstein. (I am not posting a selfie, by the way.)
It’s been almost two years since I did a Mexico post on my blog, so I am WAY out of practice. I forgot how much work they are between taking all the photos, editing the photos, and coming up with something whimsical or thought-provoking to say. My main objective for the posts on Isla this time is to show friends I work with where I go, how I go, and what I do when I’m there. This first post will be a very basic “how I get to Isla” description, so it’s not going to be very whimsical or thought-provoking. Besides that, it usually takes me 2-3 days to get my “Mexico legs” and come up with an idea of what I want to do. I’m still on day one, so bear with me.
I had the luxury of a non-stop flight this time. It really IS a luxury. My son downloaded the movie “Gravity” on my laptop and the length of the movie worked exactly with the time I could use my computer on the plane, so the time just whizzed by. Got off the plane and went through immigration pretty quickly. I have been through this where the lines go all the way back to the far wall.
And the luggage area was pretty empty.
I breezed through customs, too, and got the green light. I wanted to take a picture of the “green light,” but they always rush you through that, so I didn’t want to slow things down. I have never gotten the red light. Although now that I’ve said that, I’m sure I’ll get it next time.
Out to the ground transportation where they wait like hawks to get your business and throw a bunch of additional services like tours and whatnot to your agenda. I went with Best Day, as usual, because they’re inexpensive ($26 round trip from the airport to/from the ferry) and reliable. I’ve never had to go through the Hotel Zone and I’ve often been the only passenger in the van. The only time I’ve had drop-offs before me was when I scheduled trips to Puerto Morelos and Playa del Carmen.
Outside refreshment station.
It’s a 30-minute drive from the airport to the ferry. It’s a very industrial area with a lot of car dealerships, offices, Sam’s Club and other businesses. As you get closer to the ferry, they’re building a bunch of highrise apartments or condos. I wonder how much they’re going for.
But you also see the typical little Mexican houses along the way, as well.
It’s always a welcoming sight to see the Gran Puerto lighthouse.
And then when you walk through the breezeway, you can smell the salty air and that beautiful blue sea welcomes you.
And then you’re saying ‘goodbye’ to the Gran Puerto lighthouse.
As I’ve said to many people, the blue of the Caribbean is just mesmerizing. I don’t think you can ever get used to it.
They had a guy singing on this one. I would prefer just listening to the waves crashing in on the side of the boat, but I think this has probably become a standard thing.
Since I just had a lame breakfast taco at the San Antonio airport, I was really hungry for some lunch. Picus is always my first choice because I like to get my toes in the sand, but they weren’t open. What?!? Are they on vacation or something? Anyway, I went to Minino’s, instead, and still got the toes in the sand opportunity.
Isn’t it amazing how clear the water is?
Here’s the restaurant…
And here’s my fish filet with garlic sauce.
The brothers are still the entertainment there. They seemed a tad out of tune this time…just saying.
I went back to the room to do a little organizing, but then went to Jax to check e-mails and make sure there wasn’t any fires at work. Jax is owned by a couple from Texas. I noticed they had redecorated the place since the last time I was there. I saw this on the wall and had to take a picture because everyone at home will recognize Gruene Hall.
This is the view from Jax…
I posted the photo below on Facebook, but will share it here, as well. This is how my first day ended. I’ve never been to this restaurant before and now I can’t for the life of me remember the name. I liked the fact that they had the beach chairs. When I sat down, the manager or owner said, “You’ve been to Isla Mujeres before.” I don’t know how he knew that, but I said that I had been here quite a few times. He asked me what kind of music I wanted to listen to. I told him, “Anything Mexican.” (I don’t like it when I hear American music in restaurants in Mexico…I hear that every day at home.) Anyway, I thought that was cool. When I go to, like, Chile’s or Pluckers, they never ask me what kind of music I want to hear.
I will have to work on pepping the blog up a notch with future posts. But, hey…I have another 13 days to accomplish that!
First of all, thanks, Gil, for your suggestions.
I’ve decided where I’m going for my trip. This hasn’t been the best year so far. In January, I had oral surgery to have a wisdom tooth pulled.
In February, I caught the stomach virus that was going around town.
So, just before spring break, I checked airline fares and schedules and found a NON-STOP flight from San Antonio to Cancun for $419. Sweet. I booked it on Friday night before spring break. Then I decided I needed to crank up my exercise schedule in order to lose a few pounds before I got to Mexico. I went out Saturday morning on a power walk and BAM…I tripped over some vines in a grassy area because I was walking so fast and broke my wrist.
Just a little word of advice…don’t break your wrist. It is not an enjoyable experience. Mine was so bad, I had to have surgery to the tune of about $35,000. That was one expensive walk. Between a plate and some pins…and some physical therapy…I could think of about a million things I would rather have been doing in the past two months.
So, on that note, I will be returning to Isla Mujeres in June. After all my drama, I just want to relax, take in some sun, good food, and a few cervezas and margaritas. I will not be climbing any ruins on this run. My only adventure will be a several day trip to Cozumel since I’ve never been there and would like to see it.
I’m also thinking of swimming with the whale sharks for the first time. Considering my luck so far this year, I’m just hoping I won’t be the first tourist eaten by one.
So I’m booked for June for two weeks. My flight goes to Cancun, but I know I don’t want to stay there. I’d welcome any suggestions as to where else to go in the Yucatan. Anywhere I haven’t been to that someone can recommend? Something a little different? Let me know.
When I go to Isla Mujeres, I always do some hunting for interesting shells and sea glass. I didn’t find anything interesting in Puerto Morelos or Tulum this time, but I didn’t really do any serious searching anyway. But when I got to Akumal, I found something that I had never found before on beaches…but then again, I had never really looked for it before. I was walking around the beach on Half Moon Bay after Hurricane Ernesto hit, and found the remains of what is called Sea Fan Coral. Here’s a photo from the internet of what it looks like in the sea:
I thought to myself, “Geez, there’s something you should be able to do with these…I should take some home.” So I did. They come in all shapes and sizes, but I will tell you right now that one of the worst things about collecting these is that THEY SMELL HORRIBLE!! I got a big collection of them and laid them out on the little space outside the front doorway in the condo where I was staying so that they could dry out. Every time I passed by them, I almost gagged from the odor that came from these once-living specimens. When it was time to go home, I wrapped them in three plastic shopping bags, so that the smell wouldn’t get all over my clothes in the suitcase. I could still smell them a little when I opened the suitcase at home, but it wasn’t as bad as I thought it might be. I was hoping that customs wouldn’t suspect there might be a dead body inside my suitcase if the smell happened to get out. So when I got home, I just tossed them out on my back patio and didn’t think about them for several weeks hoping that the hot Texas sun would dry them out and reduce the smell. After about three weeks, they were pretty much odor-less. (Thank God.)
So last week, I started wondering what I could do with these, and I just started playing around with one and came up with this. I painted the coral a metallic turquoise and left the base natural and just put a polyurethane coat on it. It’s kind of unique on its own as a display of interesting sea life…
But then it occurred to me that it could do double-duty as an earring holder! Sweet!!
Let’s see what else I can come up with. Stay tuned.
Sorry about my lateness in reporting my full day in Akumal. It started out pretty cloudy on my morning walk on the beach.
Here’s a fixer-upper right in the middle of Half Moon Bay. It has potential. I wouldn’t turn it down if someone gave it to me.
As I walked, it got cloudier…
…as Hurricane Ernesto made his approach. It poured for about 15 minutes and I thought that was going to be it, but it stopped and some blue sky came out so I thought we had been given a reprieve. I grabbed my bike and pedaled into town with camera in hand hoping the worst had passed. I got into town long enough to take a few pictures. Aren’t these flowers pretty?
I grabbed a quick lunch of fish tacos at La Cueva del Pescador. They were very good…
Then I went for a walk along Akumal Bay. They were bringing boats in in preparation for the storm.
Here’s the last picture taken by my Canon G12. (HEAVY SIGH) See the big waves and sea spray? That was just the beginning. As the clouds began to reform, I headed back to the bike to pedal home only to have my camera and me drenched by the torrential downfall along the way. I survived…my camera didn’t.
So, now…the question of the day. What did I think of my trip? Hmmm…it wasn’t my best. Like I’ve said before, it was too disjointed and I did too much jumping around. As a result, I never felt a connection with any of my destinations. I’ve learned that you need to stay in one place for a matter of days before you can feel comfortable and at home there. I’ll go through my stops one by one.
Puerto Morelos: I’ve been here a couple of times before and already knew there’s not that much to do and didn’t want to spend much time there. But it’s a convenient short stop from the airport.. The hotel I chose was okay, but I wouldn’t want to spend a long time there. There were some negative changes to the town this time, so I didn’t even entertain the thought of staying there longer.
Playa del Carmen: Like I said on my post the night I stayed there, I’m not a PDC kind of gal because it’s too commercial and glitzy. But I absolutely loved the hotel I stayed at there. The Hotel Lunata was really comfortable and cozy. The bed was soft, it had a very Mexican feel and I could have comfortably stayed there for a year or two…seriously. I did not want to leave.
Tulum: I would never stay at the Secret Garden again…it was almost oppressive with a closed-in feeling and lack of sunlight. I was disappointed in the town because it was right on the highway and didn’t really have the charm or history that the towns more inland have to offer. The restaurant prices were much higher than I thought they were going to be and they just weren’t that great. Getting to the beach involves cab fares and the beach area is confusing to someone who is not staying on the beach. Since the town is so separate from the beach area, it’s just an inconvenience if you’re staying in one place and want to get to the other.
Akumal: This was probably the most disappointing place I stayed on this trip. I’ve been briefly through it twice before but have never stayed overnight here. Both previous times, I wasn’t impressed, but when I was deciding where to go after Tulum on this trip, I thought maybe I hadn’t given Akumal enough attention. It turns out I had. There just isn’t that much to do in Akumal. There is a small town area where there are some souvenir shops, a convenience store and some restaurants. It takes no more than about 15 minutes to see all of this. The restaurants are very pricey and are just okay…nothing over the top. There are little convenience stores along the road to all the condos and homes along the coast which are very expensive and don’t offer much of a variety. After being there for a few days, I learned that it’s a place where families and/or couples go for some quiet time. This definitely isn’t a party town or a place where people going solo can meet other solo travelers. I felt kind of isolated here and that wasn’t because of Hurricane Ernesto. I would never go back to Akumal on my own. And if I DID go back, it would only be with a family member or someone I wanted to spend some quiet, close time with. Even then, I would probably opt for another Mexican location. It’s just kind of boring after one day if you’re looking for other things to do. I would definitely recommend that you rent a car if you stay here so that you can go to other locations like Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Coba, Puerto Aventuras, Xcaret, etc. They offer water activities like scuba diving, snorkeling, etc., so if you’re not into these, Akumal doesn’t offer much other than relaxation. One big thing I didn’t like about Half Moon Bay is that the beach is nothing but dead coral. It is difficult to swim in this bay because the sea floor is covered with the coral so you can’t get any kind of footing. It’s best if you have some water shoes because you don’t know what you’re stepping on out there. I waded out once and had a hard time coming back on to the beach because the coral was slippery and I couldn’t stand up. Akumal Bay is much better and more swimmer-friendly, but if you’re staying at Half Moon Bay, you have to commute to Akumal Bay.
Highlights of the trip were definitely my trek to the top of the ruins at Coba and the sea turtle release in Akumal. These made up for all the downsides of the other events. I won’t be going back to these locations in the near future, but I’m still glad I went. Now it’s just on to the next adventures.
Not being really happy with Tulum, I decided on a whim to head up to Akumal and made last-minute arrangements on-line the day before I got there. I’ve been through Akumal briefly a couple of times, but have never stayed there. I already did a post about the condo, but I’ll reiterate that it really was a very comfortable place and it was nice having a kitchen.
There were two things that were just a little disappointing. There was no cable TV…they had a TV and a DVD player…but it wasn’t hooked up to cable. When the website said there was a TV, I automatically thought it meant they had cable, so that was my error. On the other hand, the internet connection was excellent so that made up for it. The other thing I missed is that it didn’t have any kind of outdoor balcony. It had a nice big window that looked out to the sea between the two neighboring condos, but it would have been nice to be able to sit outside. Nonetheless, it was a great place and I would highly recommend it. The maintenance staff was incredibly efficient and everything was very clean and well-kept. It was $75US per night. There were three women from the rental website who were extremely helpful and friendly, and offered ideas of things to see in the area. They also communicated with me before Hurricane Ernesto struck, informing me that if it became serious, they would find accommodations in Valladolid. That was very reassuring. Thank you, Lisa, Jill and Toni!
One thing they told me was there there was a little cenote just across the street from the condo. How cool is that?
While it may not be one of the cenotes that people drive miles to see, it’s still interesting to find out that there are so many all over the Yucatan. See the big fish?
The plants really flourish down here. The Hibiscus bushes are huge…much bigger than my little potted ones in Texas.
I went into town and needed something from the little store. I think it’s funny that you can buy eggs by the egg in Mexico..ha! “I’ll take one egg, please.”
Even though Ernesto wasn’t due for another day, the winds were starting to kick up and dark clouds were appearing on the horizon, so there weren’t a whole lot of people in the water.
I stopped at Lol Ha for lunch and had a cold one while I waited for my meal. I wish I could always have this view for lunch…
This time, I had a scallop po’ boy. I LOVE po’ boys, so I was really excited about this since I had never seen one before on a Mexican menu. Here we go…
It was excellent. The corn meal breading was perfect and the sauce was very authentic. Definitely a thumbs up.
So when I left Lol Ha, I passed by a real estate office and took some pictures of the ads in the window. Kind of interesting to see the large range of prices for places in Akumal.
I could see myself living here…
You own this place for one week for $14,000??? Seriously? Who would do that? That seems crazy to me even if you have money to throw away. Unless I’m misunderstanding this, I could think of about a million other things to spend $14,000 on.
Way more reasonable…
I was surprised to see my condo was for sale. I like it, but I don’t know if I’d pay that for it.
And MUCH more reasonable. Hmmm…wonder what it looks like inside.
Obligatory toes in Akumal sand photo…
Beach shot before Ernesto came calling…
And my cochonito pibil at La Buena Vida which is a restaurant on Half Moon Bay. Very good.
One more post to come on Akumal before the death of my camera.
This will be my final post on Tulum…and this will be on the “other” Tulum. Here’s a Google shot of the area. You can see that the beach is quite a distance away from the actual town of Tulum and as I said before, you definitely can’t walk it. You have to drive down Highway 109 which then runs along the coast.
On my first day there, I took a cab down to the area thinking that I could walk along the coast where there would be a lot of restaurants and hotels. Well, there are a lot of restaurants and hotels, but it’s not a “walking” kind of area. It’s the kind of place where you make arrangements where you’re going to stay and that’s pretty much where you’re going to stay unless you’ve rented a car. The road that runs along the coast is not walker friendly, it’s narrow, and busy with cars, cabs and delivery trucks. There are no sidewalks and you feel quite exposed to the traffic if you’re walking along the road.
There are public beaches along the coastline and lots of vehicles just stop alongside the road which can cause some delays. The hotels are on each side of the highway and are secluded so that you really can’t see what they look like unless you actually walk up and see them personally. Since the cab had dropped me off, I just walked down the road and decided to stop for a margarita. This was the view…
There was a nice little bay off to the side…
A nice view but the place was pretty much empty.
I ended up catching a cab and going back pretty quickly because I could see real soon that this wasn’t a place where you could leisurely walk around and enjoy the sights.
When I rented the car to go to Coba, I initially was going to explore some of the colonial inland towns, but then decided to drive down the coast. It was the wrong choice.
This is all you could see for miles. Just resort after resort without actually being able to see the coast except for an occasional public beach.
I finally ran into the biosphere which was a dirt road filled with potholes and because my already suspension-less rental car had 184,000 miles on it, I didn’t want to take a chance of getting stranded, so I turned around. What a disappointment. I wish I had explored some of the colonial towns with the beautiful churches and quaint downtown zocalos instead. Well, there’s always next time.
On the way back, I stopped at one of the resorts where I had a 10% coupon from the hotel where I was staying. Resident dog…
And nice view when you get to the restaurant…
But it was one of those places that played music with a DJ on the beach which I am NOT a fan of. When I’m at the beach, I just want to hear the sea gulls and the sound of the waves against the shore. I don’t want to hear the heavy beat of some rap song while I’m trying to relax. But then again, I’m not 25 years old anymore, am I?
Went down to the beach and this is the view to the right…
And to the left…
Toes in Tulum sand…
Here’s what I had for the 10% off…a nice healthy salad. And it was very good! And I think it only cost about $20 USD!! What a deal, huh? No, it was not worth it, but that’s what these resort places are charging and are getting away with.
While I was eating, a young women came up to me and asked me what I was eating because she thought it looked so good. We got to talking and she told me that she was from the U.S. and had moved with her Mexican husband and two young children to Tulum sight unseen. Wow…that’s a big leap of faith. She told me that she has her good times and bad but that she would never go back. It seems like everyone who moves to Mexico wants to stay. That says something.
So…the question of the hour. What is my opinion of Tulum? I wouldn’t go back in the near future. There are too many other towns and cities in Mexico that I’d rather visit first. First of all, there really isn’t that much to do in the town. If anything, it’s a starting point to do other things like visiting cenotes or ruins. Secondly, the restaurant prices are definitely not a bargain so you don’t feel like you’re saving a whole lot by staying there. Thirdly, and most importantly, I don’t like the fact that the beach and the town are so separate…and that it’s difficult to get that “beach feel” if you’re not staying at a hotel ON the beach. And while Tulum has hotels and restaurants right on the beach, they are not conducive to people just strolling by to stop in. You have to make a point to go to any of the restaurants on the coast line.
Another thing you have to keep in mind in regards to the hotels along the beach is that many of them have limited electricity. They are eco-friendly and some of them don’t have electricity during the night hours and most of them don’t have any air conditioning. I asked about room rates while I was there and could have gotten a room for about $55 USD a night.
While I don’t regret my stay in Tulum, I don’t think I would stay there again in the near future.
Tulum was actually larger than I thought it was going to be. Not a large city by any means, it was still an active town with many restaurants to choose from. One thing that was disappointing was that the prices were much higher than I thought they were going to be. While I expected the beach resort restaurants to be pricey, I didn’t think the in-town restaurants were much better. On my first night, I stopped at an Argentinian place along the main highway downtown. They brought a complimentary appetizer of bread and chimichurri sauce and sauteed onions. Isn’t it nice how everything is colored-coordinated, to include the beer and my sunglasses? Rich shades of browns and golds…would make a nice advertisement.
I didn’t know what to expect because I had never had this before, but it was wonderful. I could have been satisfied with having just this for dinner.
More tightly napkin-bound utensils…
For lunch I had the vegetarian crepes. I should have just stuck with the appetizer because this was WAY more than I was hungry for. This was one of the least expensive items on the menu and it was about 120 pesos. It was good…
Very rich and filling…
I could only eat about half of it. For dinner that night, the owner of my hotel recommended Charlies.
For a restaurant with such an American name, I would have thought it was owned by Americans, but the woman who seated me didn’t speak a lick of English. She seemed like the owner or manager, and was very nice, but it was very difficult to understand her. After some conversation, I was able to figure out that she wanted me to come back the next night because they were having entertainment. I’m always kind of amazed that even with my severely limited knowledge of the Spanish language I am able to understand some conversations just from various words I can decipher.
I ordered the shish-kabob, but was very disappointed. The meat was very tough and I couldn’t eat all of it. Again, it was pretty pricey at about 150 pesos…definitely not worth it.
After dinner, I learned that there were salsa dance lessons in the back room, so I decided to go back and check it out. The main participants consisted of an American couple with two small children. I will have to say that many Americans could learn a few things about dancing from our friends south of the border. Most of us are WAY too stiff and awkward and could use some serious loosening up before we try to come close to imitating our very talented southern neighbors. This couple looked like it was more work than fun and definitely needed a few shots of tequila in my humble opinion. Sorry I didn’t get photos.
It was hard not to notice that most restaurants that had televisions were showing the Olympics. Here’s the trampoline competition…
I just had a beer in this place and noticed that it had its own little Dia de los Muertos celebration on a Ferris Wheel. How fun…little skeletons with their arms up…wheeeeee!!!!!
Subway in Tulum. Yep… I went there after my day in Coba. I was tired and just wanted to get back to the claustrophobic hotel, believe it or not. The 6-inch sub I ordered was only about $1.70 US dollars…wow. And it was good!
Okay, so these are just some miscellaneous shots of Tulum…I took these the morning I was leaving for Akumal.
I’d also like to know how much this place is, too. It was a half block off the main highway and actually looked very nice.
A veggie omelet…
It was good…very cheesy…
I’m saying…it must be a law!
No matter where you go in Mexico, you get a feel that despite the problems, these people love their country.
And they love each other.
One more post to come of the “other” Tulum.
I thought I would do several posts on Tulum rather than one long one. The strange thing about Tulum is that there are actually two areas…the main town which sits right on the highway…and the hotels and beach areas that run along the coastline. They are not within walking distance of one another which is kind of a shame. It is at least a five minute taxi ride to get from the town to the beach, depending how far you are going down the coast and costs about 50 pesos for the ride.
First, I started out the day in Playa del Carmen. When I’m in Mexico, I always like staying in hotels that have cable TV. I don’t watch a whole lot of TV when I’m there, but when you travel alone, it’s always kind of nice to have some chatter in the background. It’s kind of interesting to flip channels…did you know Barney speaks Spanish? And it looks like he’s in Venice, so he must speak Italian, too!
Personally, I only like to watch de pelicula which shows old Mexican movies. They’re silly, but for some reason, they make me feel at home…I have no idea why.
Well, it’s time for breakfast, so I go to a nearby restaurant on the main strip. Here I am…
The waiter just grabbed my camera and took a picture. All the waiters are always so nice in Mexico. I don’t think I’ve ever had a single instance when a waiter hasn’t been. However, I didn’t take a picture of breakfast this morning because it was one of the worst breakfasts I think I have ever had in Mexico. I just had eggs with potatoes and sausage. You wouldn’t think that would be too hard to screw up, but it was really bad. The potatoes were just like a McDonald’s hash brown patty and the sausage was a mediocre hot dog cut in half length-wise. Yikes. I don’t think I’ll be visiting this establishment for breakfast again.
Time to head to the bus for Tulum. I don’t follow Disney cartoon movies, so I don’t know what was showing, but it’s kind of funny to see these dubbed in Spanish.
Here we are backing out of the bus station. I will have to say the bus drivers of these big buses are very skilled in maneuvering around tight places. For one thing, the parking spaces in these stations don’t leave a whole lot of room in between buses, so that alone always impresses me. But seeing these huge vehicles turn sharp corners in very tight, crowded Mexican towns just amazes me. This was particularly evident when I was to Vallodolid. Some of those streets were extremely narrow and cars were parked along the sides. It’s amazing that these guys don’t run into something once in awhile. I give them lots of kudos.
Here’s a typical street scene in crowded Playa del Carmen…
There’s nothing really to take pictures of along Highway 307 when you’re going down the coast line. The road is too far away from the shoreline to see, and all the hotels and attractions are tucked back from the highway, so you can’t really see anything along the way.
Here’s the ADO bus station in Tulum…
Here’s my room which was right next door to the check-in area, so I never felt like I had a whole lot of privacy. Besides that, I normally don’t mind when a room is small, but this one had a very claustrophic feel to it.
Maybe that was because of the dark brown wall and barn-looking door…
The bathroom was very dark…
But the shower was a good size…
Here’s the center courtyard between the two rows of rooms. One evening, I decided to take my laptop out there to do some blogging while another couple was relaxing. As I stepped over to one of the benches, I said, “Do you mind if I join you?” Neither one said a word. I thought maybe they were foreigners and couldn’t understand me, but you would have thought they might have said some kind of greeting. Anyway, it was REALLY dark out there and I had to rely on the light from my laptop in order to see where to sit. It seems like they could have had some dim lights out there or something so you didn’t trip on anything. So I sit down on the bench and start working on the blog when I suddenly feel/hear something “land” on the bench next to me. I couldn’t see anything in the dark, so I kind of felt around on the bench next to me to see if there was something there. As I write this now, though, I can’t even believe I did that! What if it had been a scorpion…or a snake!! And here I’m trying to feel what it was?? Really, Deb? Feeling rather uncomforable because of the mute fellow hotel guests and my unknown bench occupant, I left pretty quickly to return to the safety of my claustrophic room.
So, on to the town of Tulum. It sits right on Highway 307 which runs from Cancun to Chetumal.
Because it is the main highway between those two locations, the traffic can be pretty noisy and hectic at times. Huge tractor trailers come through all the time…and many of these are semis pulling another full semi behind.
Because of all this traffic, they have guards that stand on the main intersections who stop traffic so that people can cross the street. That’s definitely a good idea and makes things much safer.
They also have the typical cars making the rounds with the loud speakers making announcements about who knows what…
Here’s the place where I rented my car. If you would have told me 10 years ago that I would be renting a car on my own in a town in Mexico from a little hole-in-the-wall place, I would have told you you were crazy. Now maybe I’M the one who’s crazy…haha!
You see police trucks circling the town quite often with officers in the back.
After awhile, you don’t even think about it…although they do look a little formidable in their black outfits…
Here’s the zocalo where all the locals come to gather in the evening…
They had a model of the Tulum ruins enclosed in a big display case. I didn’t go to the ruins this time, but have been there before. You can check out that visit here.
Here’s just a typical street scene around the corner from where I was staying.
This tree is called a Pride of Barbados. They have these in Texas, but they are only bushes…they aren’t huge trees like this one. They are all over Mexico and are just beautiful. They clipped this one to accommodate those big semis going through town.
Had to share this sign I saw on a store window. A “holyday home”…hahaha!
I’ll end this post on some beautiful flowers growing at my hotel. More on Tulum to come.
I got home at about 10:15 p.m. on Thursday night and had to go into work on Friday because it was the first day of registration for the fall semester at the university. Even though I was so tired after a day’s worth of traveling, I ended up tossing and turning on Thursday night and didn’t get much sleep. So I was pretty much worthless on Friday. It took the weekend to recover, so now I need to go back through my photos and post some things I never got to while I was in Mexico.
I will have to admit that this was a strange trip for me. There was too much jumping around from one place to the next and it didn’t end up to be a real relaxing vacation. Plus, having to deal with Hurricane Ernesto wasn’t in my plans, so that took away some of the fun, too, although it was somewhat interesting, nonetheless. Since it had been a year and a half since I had been to Mexico, I think I tried to fit too much in and it just ended up being kind of disjointed. I never really felt a connection with anywhere that I stayed and that was a disappointment for me because I’ve always felt that before.
Anyway, I still want to make some posts of things I experienced along the way. This post will be about the Grand Cenote which is just outside of Tulum on the way to Coba. I hadn’t planned on making any stops before Coba, but since I had the car, it was convenient. It cost 100 pesos to get in…and here’s the first thing you see when you enter. I don’t think the restaurant was open…maybe it is during a busier time.
They had a pen full of peacocks before you got to the cenote…
So the cenote isn’t far from the road and this is what you see when you get there…
It isn’t that far below the surface of the ground level which kind of surprised me…especially being named “Grand” Cenote. My first cenote was Ik Kil, near Chichen Itza, which you can view here: Ik Kil Ik Kil is much deeper underground and more impressive in that respect.
There were lots of lily pads. See the turtle in the center?
The thing that was impressive about this cenote was the incredible reflection of the sun on the water. It created beautiful shimmering effects with the camera.
I particularly like this shot…and I did not manipulate this photo at all…
And it looked like there were caverns and crawlspaces underneath the rocks where you could swim…
See another turtle?
Okay, so I climb back out of the cenote and see a sign where there are some more down a pathway. No one else is going down this way, but I decide to see if there’s something worth seeing. After about a five minute walk, I come to what looks like a cenote in progress. It’s very shallow and dirty and there are about five Mexican workers moving rocks and talking…until they see me and everyone stops talking. Okay…time to turn around and go back since I’m out here all by myself.
On the way back, I see this. I’m adventurous, but not THAT adventurous. This is what horror movies are made from. Nice home-made ladder, though.
Now we come to a “feeder” cenote off the main one. It’s amazing how clear and blue the water is…
This is the view going back to the main opening under the rocks…
Then this is back at the main cenote again…
But this time, a bunch of scuba divers had come and were just getting in the water. If that’s the case, then there must be caves and caverns back there that are worth exploring. I’m not a scuba diver (yet), but I’m thinking that would be pretty fun to explore what’s under there.
On the way out, I saw the customary chickens and roosters…
This is probably his son (awwwww)…
And a final picture of the beautiful flowers that were blooming on the grounds. I don’t know what they are but they were as delicate as tissue paper…and such a pretty color.
Coming up next…my stay in Tulum.
I’m not going to post much tonight. I’m tired and kind of blue about heading back north of the border…not to mention having my camera die. Some people think it may come back if I put it in rice, so I will give it a try.
I will post more when I get back and get my pictures organized . I have pros and cons about the places I have stayed and will post those when I collect my thoughts. Living through Hurricane Ernesto wasn’t that bad. I fell asleep at about 10:30 when I learned that none of my neighbors were going to evacuate. I woke up at about 3:45 to the same sounds of rain and wind that I fell asleep to. The electricity and internet were working, however, so I just went back to sleep. Today was still extremely windy…so much so that you really couldn’t do anything on the beach. A few people went swimming, but there were no boats or snorkelers. When I went out to the beach this morning, I expected a big mess but it really wasn’t that bad. Mostly seaweed and some plastic trash like bottles, etc. My neighbors told me that the winds only got to about 35 kilometers per hour, so that wasn’t much…although to me as a newbie to hurricanes, it was pretty noisy. My thinking was that if they weren’t going to worry…I wasn’t going to worry.
All in all, it was a good trip. I definitely would have done some things differently and I will explain those in the next few days. I will end this on a shot I got of the beach south of Akumal Bay before my camera died. This beach is amazing and clean and blue…and reminds me of Playa Norte on Isla Mujeres.
Just a quick post tonight because I’m afraid the electricity and/or internet may go out depending on how strong Ernesto becomes. The day started out pretty gloomy…
It poured for awhile, then let up a bit, so I decided to bike into town so that I didn’t go stir crazy here in the condo. It’s a cute place, but I don’t want to spend every waking hour here while I’m on vacation.
My first stop in town is the little convenience store for these…
Because on my bike ride, my flip flop got caught on a damn topes. I lost the flip flop and the bike pedal came up and hit me in the shin. It’s like, “Really, Deb??? You can climb a mile up Coba (well, maybe not a whole mile, but it felt like it), and you get wounded on a freaking bicycle??” Tell me about it. At least I didn’t fall. That would have been one major embarrassment. But I did have to stop the bike and go back for the damn flip flop. Lovely, huh?
So, on the way back to the condo, it started pouring. And the weather has been pretty awful since then. The wind is the worst…it just won’t let up. It also rains…but not continuously. Sometimes it will just drizzle, sometimes it will pour and right now it’s not raining at all. I took a walk on the beach just a few minutes ago and the waves are fierce. A couple may seem pretty tame, and then all of a sudden a big one will come and just about knock you off your feet. I took this picture this morning when it was raining…
This is from the window of my dining area where I do all my blog work. As you can see from the blurry photo, the wind and water are working up a storm. When I took a walk out there a little while ago, some of the waves were getting up to that middle palm. The condos right on the beach have their hurricane shutters up. I don’t have any hurricane shutters! I look out on that churning sea and I can see how powerful it is. I don’t think we have anything to worry about here, but it definitely is a reality check when it comes to Mother Nature.
On a final sad note, there was one fatality from Ernesto. While biking back from town, the downpour effected my camera and it’s pretty much gone. I’m very sad. That camera has accompanied me on many trips to Mexico and I’m sorry to see it go. I didn’t bring another camera, so I won’t be taking anymore pictures during my stay. Luckily, I saved all my previous pictures on a flash drive, so I will still be able to do posts on Tulum and the cenotes. Right now, I’m kind of in mourning. Goodbye, G12…you’ve been a good traveling buddy.
I didn’t do much of anything today. I did rent a bicycle from the condo office, though. Quite a sweet ride, wouldn’t you say? Especially the basket…I love the basket. Much easier to bring home trinkets from the souvenir shops. Although I have to say that after climbing Coba…and now the bicycle…my legs have had quite a workout this vacation. That’s not a bad thing, though.
So I drove into town, although I didn’t really take many pictures. Did a little shopping, ate a little lunch, came back and sat out on the beach for awhile. While I was sitting out there, I noticed these little areas in the sand surrounded by rocks and coral with little signs that looked like crosses.
While they may look like mini grave sites, they are, in fact, the opposite. I asked someone who was passing by and these little areas note the places where mama sea turtles have laid their eggs. This person also told me that some had surfaced just a short ways down the beach. Luckily, I had my camera, so off I went. I should have taken a picture of the group of people surrounding this little scene, but I was so intent on what was happening, I didn’t think of it. Apparently, the mother turtles come to the beach during the night and lay their eggs about a foot underneath the surface of the sand. (This is what one of the people who was in the group told me.) When the eggs hatch, the turtles slowly make their way to the surface. It is a very slow process and when a few turtles pop their heads through the sand, it can still be awhile before they come all the way out.
The woman who seemed to be the head of the group said that they would probably be popping out at about 7:00 p.m., so I made it a point to be there by then. Well, these baby turtles’ schedules weren’t exactly “on time,” and we anxiously waited about 45 minutes before they made their appearance. The few that had popped their heads through were motionless for almost the entire 45 minutes that I was there. Then the one that was on top started to move his flippers. That’s all it took and then what was probably about 50 or so baby turtles poured out of that hole and headed for the sea. It was pretty amazing.
For these little guys to come to life and know exactly what they’re supposed to do is a miracle. And I couldn’t believe how fast they moved!
And after about only a couple minutes, they were all gone. These little guys were only about four inches long. They can grow to over three feet and weigh about 400 pounds. I wish them well…they certainly made my day.
It’s raining now. I think Hurricane Ernesto is stopping by for a visit. I have my window open and I hear the sea crashing against the shore…and the rain. Two of my favorite sounds. Life is good.